After spending quite a while in the Austin area I ended up deciding to end this leg of the tour,
take the train to Oregon, and try out Astoria.

That's it for now folks.

Happy trails.

Just outside of Austin, Texas
49 days since leaving Chelsea, Mi.

1,500 miles


Heading into Austin having found some farm work.
Will give the legs a rest.
Glad that its warmed up a bit.

We're not in Michigan anymore

-I don't normally shop at Wal-Mart, but they do have a nice sesame trail bar that I can't find anywhere else, and they have coconut oil in a plastic tub.

-Really nice chat with Teresa at the Texarkana, Arkansas visitors center. Free coffee, Texas map, hot tip on where to have lunch...

-Jeffica's in Texarkana is the place to eat. Fish tacos done right.

-Got a new belt from an old life preserver laying next to the road.

-Still really cold.  Had to buy a silk scarf to cut the wind on my neck.

-Picked up some precut flashing sections for the pot windbreak.

-Caddo Lake State Park in Texas.
 I need to come back with my canoe, the swamps look amazing.  This is a really neat park with some of the original CCC buildings still up and in use as well as a fantastic and friendly staff.

-R and R Bakery and Coffeeshop in Marshall, Texas
  You can't make a scone with muffin mix.
  Thumbs down.

-The Fork & Cork in Henderson, Texas
  Excellent chicken pot pie, over the top desserts and a choice beer selection.

-The Horse's Mouth in Buffalo, Texas
Mixed Review, again with the f****** muffin mix scones, but lots of really good sci-fi collections for cheap.

Now we're cookin'

camp

-Stopped in Piggott, Arkansas for a new map and spent a while working on a route through the state.
 Also had my first ever plate lunch at Donna's.

-Craighead Forest Park in Jonesboro, Ark.
  $10/night primitive camping, hot showers, heated bathroom area, mountain bike trails.
 Two Thumbs Up

-Edge Coffeehouse also in Jonesboro
  A very good omelette and a nice pecan pie, bonus points for being an actual house, lots of nice woodwork.

-163 along Crowley's Ridge is a great route.

-William's Downtown
 Forrest City, Arkansas
 Plate Lunch
 Baked Ribs
 Yams
 Cabbage
 A nice little corn griddle cake

 More Yams
 More Cabbage

Perfect

p.s. This was one of the all time greatest meals I've ever had.  I just want to make that clear.


-Kingdom Bakery in Brinkley
 What does it mean when a bicycle tourer who loves cookies can't finish his cookies?
 I cannot recommend the cookies.

-Maumelle Campground in Little Rock
 This was the recommendation from the outdoor store where I got a new sleeping bag.
 Its a Army Corp of Engineers campground, quite nice, though a little $$.  First sighting of other people using tents.  I shared a fire and had breakfast the next morning with a couple of Air National Guardsmen trainees.  So nice to be able to actually socialize with neat people.

-Little Rock has some nice riverside bike trails and a new bike/ped bridge.

-Nice inexpensive camping in the National Forest along Lake Ouachita.

-Frozen Precipitation on the tent in the morning as the Polar Vortex sets in.
 The next day I head south rather than west. And the day after that, and after that....

-Took a break at a memorial to the Caddo Indians. Broke out the hickory smoked venison Dan Vernia gave me. Perfect. Thanks Dan.

Along the Tunnel Hill State Trail

-Full on hobo camp in Mt. Vernon, In.  Right next to a small river and the train tracks. Probably would have heard ghost harmonicas if the trains hadn't been so damn loud.  Glad I brought my ear plugs.

-Even though I unsigned up from WarmShowers because It seemed like I'd never be able to host again due to the nonstandard living situations I seek out, hang around small town hardware stores long enough trying to find material and inspiration for a little wind guard for the cook pot, and you're bound to be invited over to someone's house who is on WarmShowers, by their friend, who isn't.

And if I'm going to be inside for the night, and watch a Clint Eastwood movie, I might as well stop for a chinese food buffet at Wok n Roll.

-Had a brainstorming engineering session with Randy of You're so Vane, as well as a cup of tea while looking through his book on the River to River hike/horse trail across southern Illinois. Funky shop that does weathervanes, bicycle rentals, and custom woodworking.  Its right on the Tunnel Hill State trail.

-Stonefort General Store.  Stop in for some chili.  Wins the award for most inclusive, family style general store.

-Pretty darn magical stone overhangs along the Tunnel Hill Trail where the River to River intersects.
  Walked around for a good hour. Choice.

The Tunnel

-Realized I'm not eating enough fat.  So  cold. Solution: buy a jar of coconut oil and eat it by the spoonful.

-Hello Missouri, cotton fields and dead armadillos.

Hoosier National Forest

- If you find yourself in National Forest land with a book, plenty of water, and some crispy leaves, you'd best take a day off.

-I would  not recommend crossing over 41 into Kentucky from Evansville, In.  Even though there's  decent camping at the John James Audubon State Park, the crossing is pretty brutal.

-Cutest little food co-op award goes to River City Food Co-Op in Evansville, In.
  Smells like a co-op should.

Maybe Indiana.

Manvale, Ohio

-Puerto Mex Latino in Adrian, MI
   Chicken Stew and plantains two ways.
  Excellent


-Ohio Pork Producers' slogan:
    "The other white meat,
      Don't be blah."

-Bicycle Museum of America in New Bremen, Ohio
   Friggin Sweet

-Lake Loramie State Park in Ohio
 Lukewarm showers, booooooo

-Dayton, Ohio area trails
Awesome, see them at http://www.miamivalleytrails.org/

-Sighted my first wild Paw Paw grove just south of Piqua, Ohio

-Sunrise Cafe in Yellow Springs, Ohio
 Kudos

-Lucky's Taproom and Eatery in Dayton
  Kale & Beet salad followed by a grass fed burger
  Five out of Five

-Swallow Bicycle Works in Loveland, Ohio
  Winner of best bike shop ever. Peanut butter filled pretzels, sourced a place to stay in Cincinatti,  extensive route planning help, free t shirt, yaddi yaddi yadda.  Check out their organized gravel road  rides.  Thanks Tom and Sarah!

-The Climb from New Albany, Indiana up to 62 on the Ohio River Scenic Byway
  Gorgeous.

-If you want to see how broad of a term General Store is visit Leavenworth and then Sulphur Springs in Indiana.  High contrast.

-Lots of steep hills starting after Corydon and carrying through until just after Sulphur Springs.
  Ouch.